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This is an entire DIY kitchen. We made the cabinets, cabinets and the countertops ourselves. The majority of the provides are from the Home Depot. We spent less than 00 even with mid-range priced home equipment and fixtures. I designed the open cabinets so they would be sturdy and easy to build. I do know that open cabinets aren't to everybody’s taste, but I really like that they inspire me to get nicer stuff. When I had closed cabinets, I might accumulate junky, plastic muddle that may be easily hidden at the back of doorways and drawers. With these open shelves, I focal point on getting nicer household items that glance nice displayed. For the few, unsightly merchandise and pieces I have, I built or recycled storage packing containers for them like the ammo cans I painted and dip-dyed.SUPPLIES:2x4sAvailable on the Home DepotI decided on nice, straight, top rate 2x4s from the Home Depot. Not all 2x4s are equivalent, so it pays to take the time to pick out the nicer ones from the pile.
3/4" PlywoodTo be had on the Home Depot I used 3/4" thick plywood to make the support layer for the countertops.
ScrewsAvailable at the Home Depot I used 2.5” and three” deck screws for the non-visible connections in the cabinets and 2.5” finish screws for the entrance faces of the cabinets.
1x6 Poplar Trim BoardAvailable on the Home Depot Poplar is a great wood for trim. It's straight and takes paint smartly. I used some 1x6 boards for the trim.
1 1/4" TrimAvailable at the Home Depot I used 1 1/4" trim to finish the dishwasher and as a second layer of trim under the countertops.
Oak FlooringAvailable on the Home Depot I used forged oak tongue and groove ground left over from doing my floors to make the shelves for the cabinets.
Putty + PaintAvailable at the Home Depot I used picket putty to cover up one of the most end screws and painted everything with low VOC internal white latex paint. Gloss or eggshell would had been more durable, but I don’t like how it seems and it is simple sufficient to touch up.TOOLS:
RYOBI ONE+ 18-Volt Orbital Jig SawAvailable at Home Depot
RYOBI Table SawAvailable at Home Depot
RYOBI Compound Miter SawAvailable at Home Depot
RYOBI ONE+ 18-Volt Compact DrillAvailable at Home Depot
RYOBI Orbital SanderAvailable at Home Depot
RYOBI 18 Volt Circular SawAvailable at Home Depot
Rigid Thickness Corded PlanerAvailable at Home DepotINSTRUCTIONS:Download the Kitchen Cabinets Plan »
STEP 1: Plane Down the 2x4s I didn’t need the 2x4s for the front face to have rounded edges, so I planed them down the usage of my thickness planer. This was once only for aesthetic reasons and is not necessary.
STEP 2: Cut the 2x4s I used my compound miter saw to chop the 2x4s to duration.
STEP 3: Assemble the Shelf Frames Each cupboard is composed of two frames which can be assembled one at a time. These frames act as the primary two cabinets for every cabinet. I pre-drilled holes before screwing the 2x4s together and checked to make certain that the 2x4s for the vertical helps fit into spaces I created for them at the outside corners of the frames.
STEP 4: Assemble the Top Supports I checked to make sure the items I lower for the top helps aligned with the frames after which screwed them in combination.
STEP 5: Add the Legs/Vertical Supports I laid the legs/vertical supports at the floor and positioned in the shelf frames I had already assembled. Then I screwed the legs to the frames using spacers to make sure that the space between the cabinets were constant.
STEP 6: Screw On the Top Supports Once the shelves were screwed to the legs, I turn the cabinet right-side up and screwed within the top supports.
STEP 7: Cut a Space for the Sink The sink I bought is fairly large, so I needed to use my jigsaw to cut a work out of the entrance 2x4.
STEP 8: Reinforce Around the Sink The concrete counter tops I was making are heavy, so I bolstered the 2x4 by reducing a 2d one and the usage of development adhesive to glue and screw them together right into a single beam. I also added vertical supports on the again top reinforce to distribute the burden extra frivolously.
STEP 9: Cut Plywood Tops I reduce pieces of plywood to use as tops for the cabinets. These tops will distribute the load of the concrete and upload strength to the cabinets. I cut the plywood with my round saw.
STEP 10: Cut a Hole for the Sink I marked the location of the sink and drilled holes in every nook earlier than the use of my jigsaw to cut between the holes.
STEP 11: Putty + Paint We used picket putty to hide the screw holes at the entrance face of the cabinets. Once the putty dried, we sanded it smooth and painted them white with two coats of low VOC inner latex paint.
STEP 12: Check Placement I checked to make certain that the cabinets have compatibility into their spaces and that the home equipment I ordered would fit in-between them. I additionally painted the plywood tops ahead of screwing them right down to the cabinets.
STEP 13: Cut Shelves I used leftover forged oak floor to make the shelves. For the front pieces, I used my desk noticed to trim off the “tongue” part of the tongue and groove floor. I used my compound miter saw to chop the oak board to length.
STEP 14: Cut Notches in the Front Shelf Boards I sought after the front oak boards to peek out over the white 2x4s just a little, so I reduce notches in them the usage of my jigsaw.
STEP 15: Prepare the Shelves Once I checked to make certain that I had cut sufficient shelf forums, I predrilled holes and gave them a final sanding with my orbital sander. Then I used the similar stain at the shelf forums that I used to be going to make use of at the floors – Rubio Monocoat in cotton white. It's an excellent product however just a little pricey.
STEP 16: Screw in the Shelves Once the stain dried, I screwed in the shelf boards using end screws. A flexible using attachment makes this more straightforward since the construction of the cabinets can get in the way in which of the drill.
STEP 17: Place the First Slab I positioned the primary concrete slab onto the cabinet. It weighs about 160lbs, so Elle and I have been able to move it fairly simply. Click here to search out directions for a way I poured the concrete counter tops.
STEP 18: Place the Second Slab The center piece of countertop is the biggest and heaviest and has the hole for the sink and tap in it, which makes it essentially the most fragile. I had a variety of lend a hand shifting it into position. We positioned it temporarily in the fitting position and then marked the opening for the tap on the cabinets. Then we moved it out of the way in which and I drilled a hole in the cabinets for the faucet pipes to head through.
STEP 19: Seal the Sink We peeled off the shrink-wrap that used to be on the sink and squeezed a bead of silicone caulk across the edge of the sink before putting the concrete over it. The weight of the concrete slab assists in keeping it from sliding and the silicone creates a water-resistant seal between the concrete and lip of the stainless-steel sink.
STEP 20: Dry Fit the Faucet I didn’t feel at ease connecting pipes that need to be watertight as a result of I'm no longer a plumber, so I simply put in the tap with out connecting the pipes. Since I had to move during the 2.75” thick counter tops, 3/4" of plywood and a 2x4, I had to replace the threaded rod that came with the faucet with a longer one so that I could clamp the faucet in place. Different faucets have different mounting systems so read the manufacturer's instructions and modify as needed.
STEP 21: Add Additional Supports I sought after to provide the plumber room to work, so I didn’t put within the heart shelf helps until after he installed the rubbish disposal and attached the pipes. Once he was completed, I was in a position to add further pieces of 2x4 to fortify the oak boards.
STEP 22: Add Shelf Boards Around the Pipes I reduce oak boards to suit around the garbage disposal. For the decrease shelf, I drilled holes and used my jigsaw to cut slots in an oak board that might cross across the water pipes. Then I used my flexible driver to screw these boards in position.
STEP 23: Install Appliances The plumber hooked up the drain and provide pipes to the dishwasher, so we just needed to slide it into place. The range, fridge and hood vent had been all basically plug and play. I just had to ensure that the electrician put plugs in the right puts.
STEP 24: Add Trim I ripped a work of 1x6 poplar down to 3 7/8” wide to use as trim beneath the concrete counters. I reduce out a notch for the dishwasher door with my jigsaw and pre-drilled holes to screw it to the front faces of the cabinets. I firstly had the concept I used to be going to color the screw heads vivid colors, but I modified my thoughts. In retrospect, finish nails would have been cleaner. I used 1 1/4" of trim to add a second layer and to trim out the sides of the dishwasher.
STEP 25: Build Fences I didn’t want things placed on the shelves to stumble upon the pipes and I wanted to cover the unpleasant portions of plumbing, so I construct fences out of 2x4s and 1/2" plywood and painted them white. They sit in-place and create a nice backdrop for the open shelves.
Wait there is more! I'll be doing posts on how I made the countertops and open cabinets for this kitchen as well as doing excursions of the loft, so stay your eye on HomeMade-modern.com for updates. Learn extra concerning the inspiration for the kitchen through looking at the video under:
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